Trekking in the Himalayas offers adventurers a chance to experience the breathtaking beauty of nature in its purest form. On a quiet morning in July, my fellow trekkers and I gathered at our campsite in Trunkhol, Kashmir, situated at an impressive altitude of 3,500 meters. Surrounded by picturesque rolling meadows and grazing horses, we fueled ourselves with a hearty breakfast of omelette, toast, Maggi noodles, and kahwa tea, preparing for our challenging ascent to Gangabal lake, a stunning glacier-fed turquoise waterbody located seven kilometers away. To lighten our load, we left behind our 20-liter backpacks and packed only essential items into smaller bags.
As the rain poured down, I embarked on the journey in my heavy trekking boots, trudging through muddy paths flanked by fluffy white sheep and a steep 70-foot drop into the Sind river valley. Crossing makeshift bridges made of rickety wooden logs over wide streams, I marveled at the contrasting colors of glacial blues against the stark white and grey of the snow-covered peaks. In that moment, I couldn’t help but think that I was witnessing something truly extraordinary, and that this hidden gem in the Himalayas would forever hold a special place in my heart. With my trusted guide, Wasim K, by my side, I documented every detail on my phone, capturing the essence of Kashmir’s heavenly landscape.
Traditionally, trekking has been a frugal activity, centered around the principle of carrying only the bare necessity items and cherishing the priceless views. However, in recent years, trekking companies across India have started offering a more luxurious experience to trekkers, with lavish buffets, spacious tents, knowledgeable guides, and even portable toilet canopies, albeit at a premium price. The goal is to provide comfort and convenience, allowing adventurers to fully immerse themselves in the beauty of their surroundings. All one needs to do is walk.
Adil Langoo’s company, Cliffhanger, based in Srinagar, has experienced a surge in the number of treks to popular destinations in Kashmir, such as the Great Lakes and Tarsar Marsar, with nearly 250 treks organized in 2023 alone. The lifting of lockdown restrictions post COVID-19 and the abrogation of Article 370 in Kashmir have played a significant role in attracting more tourists to the region. Adil notes that the preference is now for smaller, more personalized groups. Sujoy Das, the founder of South Col Expeditions, which has been organizing treks in Ladakh, Kashmir, Sikkim, and Nepal since 1986, believes in limiting group sizes to ensure a pleasant experience and individual attention for each participant.
In contrast, popular trekking companies like India Hikes and Trekmunk focus on offering budget-friendly trekking experiences, making them accessible to a wide range of individuals, including students and young professionals. These companies cater to approximately 25,000 trekkers, with a steady annual increase of 3,000-4,000 adventurers. Luxury trekking groups, on the other hand, command higher prices ranging from ₹30,000 to ₹90,000 for their packages. The Himalayan region in India heavily relies on campsites for treks, as there are few homestays or “tea houses” like those found in Nepal. To ensure a seamless experience, companies like Banjara Experiences, led by Mohit Gulia, set up tents in advance, with the help of cooks, guides, and porters. Trekkers often offload their heavy bags onto porters or horses, allowing them to focus solely on the physical challenges of the trek.
For those seeking a touch of luxury amidst the rugged terrain, food plays a crucial role. Aarthi Srinath, a Chennai-based marketer and avid trekker, recalls indulging in a freshly-baked chocolate cake on the last day of her trek with South Col Expeditions. Adil, Mohit, Sujoy, and Vaibhav Kala, founder of Aquaterra Adventures, emphasize the importance of providing a sumptuous breakfast spread, including pancakes, toasts, cereal, spreads, eggs, and refreshing juices. Lunch is often enjoyed by a picturesque stream, reminiscent of scenes from Enid Blyton novels, while snack breaks involve savoring cups of tea, pakoras (fritters), and sandwiches. A delightful dinner awaits trekkers, starting with a warm soup and finishing with sweet treats like gulab jamun and chocolates. Some companies even ensure non-vegetarian options, such as carrying live hens for fresh poultry.
When it comes to accommodations, luxury trekking companies go the extra mile to provide roomier tents. Normally designed for three people, the tents are occupied by just two, ensuring increased comfort and space. The tents are equipped with solar lights, hot water packs, and comfortable mattresses, topped with cozy sleeping bags. Other trekking companies also offer similar amenities, understanding the importance of a good night’s rest after a strenuous day. Guides carry satellite phones, as cellphone signal is scarce in the hills, ensuring that trekkers can stay connected when necessary. Adil shares a remarkable incident where a diplomat required daily access to messages. The team went above and beyond, with a horseman trotting 17 kilometers to the nearest cell tower to ensure connectivity. The diplomat eventually decided to embrace the tranquility of the trek and disconnect from the external world.
With the rise in popularity of trekking across India, trekking companies emphasize the need for environmental consciousness. Preserving the pristine nature of the campsites is essential, encouraging trekkers to leave no trace of their presence. Mudasir Ismail, the founder of Himalayan Bird Adventures, which accompanied me on my journey to Gangabal lake, stresses the importance of leaving campsites untouched. Sujoy adds that guides regularly educate smaller trekking groups about the fragile ecology of the regions they explore. On my final day of the trek, I embraced this responsibility wholeheartedly, ensuring that I packed up my belongings and left the surroundings as pristine as I found them. With just pieces of my heart remaining, I bid farewell to Gangabal lake, knowing that its beauty would forever be etched in my memory.
Trekking in the Himalayas offers a unique blend of adventure, natural beauty, and luxury. As more trekkers seek out extraordinary experiences in this awe-inspiring region, trekking companies are rising to the challenge, providing premium services and amenities. From lavish meals to comfortable tents, these companies offer the opportunity to explore the mountains without sacrificing comfort. However, amidst this evolution of luxury trekking, it is essential to remember our responsibility towards the environment and leave these captivating landscapes untouched for future generations to enjoy.